All Posts By Gabe Purugganan

From the Seas to the Streets: the Barbour Brand’s Royal Influence


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At its very core, people wear clothes for a function. Whether it’s wearing a blazer for a night out with friends or an Arcteryx parka in the harsh freezing terrain of Mt. Everest, the environment and event dictate the clothes that we wear

But sometimes clothes no longer get associated with their function, and instead, they become attached to their influence. One brand that designs these clothes is the British outerwear brand, Barbour — most famous for its water-resistant and durable Waxed canvas jackets. Barbour jackets are worn around the globe across different levels of society, especially in areas where it could get rainy and cold. For many people, a Barbour jacket is the perfect Fall jacket: versatile, functional, and high-quality. But, what’s most interesting about the brand are its beginnings as an outfitter for motorcyclists and sailors and its movement towards modernity through the blessing of the Royal family themselves. The Barbour brand is now synonymous not only with function but its influence as well. From the seas to the streets: the Barbour brand’s royal influence is not only stylish but is a representation of clothing with a profound meaning.

barbour brand's royal influence

barbour brand's royal influence

In 1894, Barbour was founded by John Barbour as J. Barbour & Sons in 5 Market Place — located in the coastal town of South Shields in the Northeast of England. From the very beginning, the brand became famous for its Waxed Canvas jacket, created by combining linseed oil with Egyptian Cotton with not only made it durable but water-resistant as well. Moreover, Barbour perfected the waxing process which made them a league of its own; their competitors’ jackets weren’t breathable and cracked under low temperatures while the Barbour Jacket remained comfortable even during harsh weather. 

Barbour jackets were first popular among seafarers and outdoor professionals, then farmers and other country folks with the introduction of Barbour’s mail-order catalog in 1908. Produced by John Barbour’s son, Malcolm Barbour, the catalog consisted of long coats and riding capes, which featured the sought-after waxed canvas material. Barbour excelled at outerwear; its in-house outerwear brand was called “Barbour’s Beacon” and was the most popular category within the mail-order catalog. The catalog was so successful, that by 1917, it accounted for 75% of the business including international orders from China, South Africa, and Hong Kong.

A decade later, the brand caught the eye of motorcyclists and became the standard jacket for British racing teams until 1977 when Barbour stopped supplying the motorcycle clothing market. This was made possible due to Duncan Barbour — the grandson of John Barbour — who brought his enthusiasm for motorcyclists when he joined the company in 1928.

Barbour Brand's Royal Influence

The Barbour Ursula Suit made famous by Steve McQueen. Photo by @pinksugar on Instagram.

It was in its functionality that made Barbour popular among its audience, and it would soon take the brand to the next level when it supplied the British Army in World War II. During the war, Malcolm Barbour and Duncan’s wife Nancy took over the company when Duncan was called to serve in the army; these two leaders of the company were responsible for developing the Ursula suit, which became the standard outfit for members of the submarine service and is popular because it was worn by Submarine Commander, Captain George Phillips.

Barbour’s clothes not only make for a style and function investment, but they make you feel like you’re a Prince hunting for game in the woods

Suddenly, Barbour gained a new upper-class audience when they received a Royal warrant in the 1980s from Queen Elizabeth and the Prince of Wales, granting them the opportunity to supply the royal court with Barbour clothing. During this time, Princess Diana was spotted wearing a Barbour coat, which convinced her peers to also sport the brand’s clothing. The opportunity that Barbour attained is a textbook example of how fashion moves through different levels of society; what started as clothing marketed for outdoor professionals were now worn by the upper-class members of society because of influence. In this case, there is no better influence than the Royal family.

These events signified Barbour’s movement to a modern menswear fashion company, and soon even celebrities would start wearing its clothes. During the 2007 Glastonbury Festival, celebrities such as the Arctic Monkeys’ Alex Turner and Lily Allen wore Barbour jackets while performing. Barbour jackets weren’t just fit for the outdoors, but anyplace where you just wanted to look stylish.

While Barbour produces a wide range of clothing — from coats to trousers — their most popular items are their Bedale, Beaufort, and International Jacket. The Bedale and Beaufort were designed by Dame Margaret Barbour, the current chairman of J. Barbour & Sons; the Bedale is a short, lightweight jacket which features a 6oz water-resistant waxed canvas with signature Barbour details such as a corduroy collar and two-way pull brass zip; the Beaufort, on the other hand, is a wide-fit jacket based on French shooting jackets with raglan sleeves. Perhaps an iconic Barbour item is the International Jacket, made famous by arguably the coolest man of the ’60s, Steve McQueen, who wore the jacket during the 1964 International Six Day Trials race in East Germany. 

Barbour Jackets are now in the same league as other iconic menswear items like the Harris Tweed Jacket — quite coincidental considering both became popular during the Ivy League Style era of the ’60s. Barbour’s history and influence have enabled them to collaborate with other brands in the modern era such as the Rowing Blazers x Barbour collaboration which featured a split-tone Barbour waxed canvas jacket in Navy and Olive. Most recently, Barbour collaborated with Streetwear brand Supreme on a range of waxed canvas jackets in bright orange. With collaborations such as these, it won’t be a surprise to see Barbour jackets gain hype soon.

It is not a denial to say that people wear clothes to look good, but it’s an entirely different feeling when clothes mean more than what they seem. Barbour’s clothes not only make for a style and function investment, but they make you feel like you’re a Prince hunting for game in the woods — the same feeling the Prince of Wales did when he wore the same Barbour Jacket as you.

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Images provided by @ivypill, @changwanli_ , and @pinksugar on Instagram

These 4 Designer Sneakers Belong in the Post-Sneaker World


“I’m heading out for groceries! Be back in a bit,” says your roommate as he heads out on a beautiful, golden sunny morning in New York City. He goes out in the most comfortable attire possible: baseball cap, hoodie, sweatpants, and Gucci Horsebit Loafers.

“Wait a second! why are you wearing those shoes instead of sneakers?” You inquire. Your roommate replies enthusiastically: “Haven’t you heard? It’s the Post-Sneaker World!”

This scenario is an extreme example of what the Post-Sneaker World is (the outfit is outright ridiculous) but, it’s certainly not too far off from the idea of its visionaries: Lawrence Schlossman and James Harris, hosts of the hype-meets-fashion podcast Throwing Fits. Let’s get some terms out of the way to figure out what the Post-Sneaker World is.

Schlossman and Harris both started their careers in Fashion and Media at Complex, and went their separate ways when Schlossman ran the Four Pins menswear site (owned by Complex), and Harris went on to manage Complex Style. In these jobs, both of them were able to express their enthusiasm for the Fashion industry: “We felt like we held up a mirror to the fashion industry, both to lampoon it, but also express our enthusiasm for it,” explains Harris in an interview with Mr. Porter. Schlossman then became Brand Director of the menswear resell site Grailed while Harris worked at Snapchat as an Editorial Development Specialist, where they both felt they didn’t possess the voice they wanted to express their passion for “jawnz.”

So what are jawnz, exactly? Schlossman describes it as any fire gear: Raf Simons tee, Maison Margiela Jacket, Yohji Yamamoto Parka — and not just hype clothing, but anything that sparks the serotonin in your brain (and others). The Throwing Fits hosts describe themselves and their audience as “jawnz enthusiasts,” and their goal, according to the podcast’s description itself, is to “navigate the millennial male zeitgeist.” It’s in this navigation that Schlossman and Harris came up with the Post-Sneaker World.

Hype culture is still prevalent today — it is especially evident in a brand like Supreme. Every Thursday, people hungry for the latest Supreme drop line up at the brand’s New York City location at 190 Bowery, the majority of which resell their newly bought jawnz at reselling websites like StockX and Grailed. Fresh drops at Supreme can resell for twice the retail price and much more, that the brand’s culture itself seems lost. 

“When every kid thinks that they’re an entrepreneur and employs the dark arts to cop six pairs of the most coveted sneakers in the world, and then flips them because they think they’re the next fucking Benjamin Kickz, it becomes about conspicuous consumerism. It’s all about flexing on the ‘gram. It becomes more and more mass. It’s just spun out of control,” Harris says in an interview with Highsnobiety Editorial Director, Jian DeLeon.

For Schlossman and Harris, the Post-Sneaker World is an environment that holds brands accountable for the products they put out; brands like Nike and Adidas can put out the most hyped-up shoes on the market, but what about the quality and craftsmanship? Sneakers made with much better materials and designs can be easily forgotten by consumers who only look at sneakers that are considered “hype.” General Release (GR) sneakers by other brands like New Balance and Asics can be just as influential if not more than the most coveted sneakers on the market. The Post-Sneaker World is not about the elimination of wearing sneakers, but it’s a way of knowing that there are other quality sneakers (and products) out there. 

This world is coming soon; NPD Senior Industry Advisor Matt Powell thinks people are much less concerned about having the latest and greatest sneaker on the market. It looks like, with the Post-Sneaker World, people are about to get more informed and educated about their purchasing decisions. But, it’s also important to point out which sneakers people should look for when the time comes (or even starting now, if you will.) Without further ado, these 4 designer sneakers belong in the Post-Sneaker World.

Sleek Silhouette: Common Projects Achilles Low

These 4 Designer Sneakers Belong in the Post-Sneaker World

$425 at Nordstrom

The legendary luxury sneaker itself, but only to certain eyes. This sneaker is so sleek that it’s become acceptable to pair them with a suit; made with high-quality leather from Italy with just enough branding with gold letters signifying the shoe’s size and color on the side (which made the brand recognizable), it is the epitome of the elevation of one’s style.

Common Projects is the love child of former V Magazine Art Director Peter Poopat, and Brand Consultant Flavio Girolami, who promise to continue producing a sneaker that is both clean and timeless.

Sneaker with a Statement: Maison Margiela German Army Trainer (GAT) Replica

These 4 Designer Sneakers Belong in the Post-Sneaker World

$625 at Farfetch

There’s a reason this sneaker is called the “Replica.” The German Army Trainer has deep roots in the Bundeswehr — or, as the name itself says, the German Army. 

Adidas and Puma were responsible for creating a sneaker that was fit for the German Army in the ’80s and ’90s, which eventually led its way to consumers after there was a surplus of unused pairs of GAT’s. Acclaimed Fashion designer Martin Margiela was able to acquire a pair from this surplus, brought it to his team, and transformed the GAT into an upscale sneaker made with Calfskin leather. Today, the Replica has become one of the most iconic sneakers in Fashion, with variations of the sneaker featuring unique paint-splatter details that differ with each pair.

Gothic Grunge: Rick Owens Geobasket

These 4 Designer Sneakers Belong in the Post-Sneaker World

$833 at SSENSE

One of the most iconic sneakers in the “Rick Owens-esque” lifestyle and sneaker culture in general. Fans of the brand embody its avant-garde and grungy appeal, which can be seen in the Geobasket sneaker created for the Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2006 collection (originally called the Dustulator Dunk but was later changed by the brand when Nike thought the sneaker was too similar to their Dunk sneaker.) 

Featuring a hi-top silhouette in white and black, oversized tongue, a padded ankle, and side-zip detailing, the Geobasket can bring out the inner grunge in you — perfect with a pair of black skinny jeans.

The Inner Rockstar: Saint Laurent SL/06

These 4 Designer Sneakers Belong in the Post-Sneaker World

$575 at Farfetch

The rockstar gene has been imbued in the ethos of Saint Laurent since Hedi Slimane entered the French label, and it has largely stayed even with his departure. Enter the SL/06 Court Classic sneaker which looks like you’ve worn them a considerable amount of time from the off-white color and intentionally distressed canvas upper that screams nonchalance.

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Images provided by ddhyunbb, shaundarwood, blazkocjancic, and ldn2hk on Instagram

Enter the New Virtual Fashion World


Imagine being present at the most recent New York Fashion Week, watching an exclusive runway show of your favorite Fashion brand in a Virtual Fashion World. You gaze around as the show begins; to your left, Anna Wintour; to your right, Leonardo DiCaprio is having a lively chat with Kanye West. As the models stream down the runway flaunting the latest in technical fabrics and revolutionary designs, a User Interface (UI) pops up. 

“Shearling Wool Jacket – $605,” the UI displays as you use your hands to point to some text at the side that reads “Add to Cart.” After checking out, you take off your Virtual Reality (VR) headset, and you’re back in your bedroom in Tokyo. Just a few days later, you receive a package containing the Shearling Jacket that was worn by the model in the VR Fashion show.

Virtual Reality is one of the most significant technological marvels in today’s revolutionary digital age, and it has certainly caught the eye of the Fashion Industry — especially during the Coronavirus pandemic. 

Fashion brands and conglomerates have already taken measures to adapt to the current state of the world; they are figuring out proper ways to compensate supply chain workers; different groups have proposed changes to the Fashion Week calendar. But, VR stands to be Fashion’s chief player: it is a peek into the proverbial keyhole of what Fashion could look like soon. Enter the new virtual Fashion world. Virtual Reality is here to stay.

Technology is a broad term to use in this scenario, as the Fashion industry has already incorporated it before (runway live streams and online shopping wouldn’t be possible without the internet after all.) A more suitable term to use is Immersive Technology, which doesn’t only include Virtual Reality, but also Augmented Reality (AR) and Mixed Reality (MR) — all of which fall under the umbrella term, XR

AR is particularly intriguing because it sounds out-of-reach, but is actually already possible to use on modern mobile devices. You may not even have known that you’ve used it before — Snapchat and Instagram Stories incorporate elements of AR when say, superimposing a pair of glasses to a selfie. Fashion brands have also experimented with AR in the same way they have with VR; Zara is one such brand that allowed store visitors to use AR on their phones to see models walking around wearing the brand’s clothes. That is what makes AR a fascinating piece of technology; it doesn’t take you away from reality — it merely builds upon and enhances it.

What separates VR from the plethora of other technologies, however? People often dream about an escape from reality — to be able to be transported elsewhere or even to experience new worlds entirely. Due to the blazing-fast computing power that we have today, VR can offer exactly that. VR makes use of computer technology to generate simulated 3D environments where users can look around, pick up things through the use of haptic feedback controllers, hear binaural audio, and in some cases, even smell and taste. Virtual Reality is the definition of immersion.

Of course, VR wouldn’t be feasible without the state-of-the-art advancements in hardware and software technology. With modern VR devices made by Oculus, HTC, and Valve on the market, it’s easy to overlook its rocky beginnings. 

It turns out, VR was just in a state of slumber, preparing for its inevitable grand resurgence.

The first instance of Virtual Reality being used in history was back in 1956 when Morton Heilig — who was a Cinematographer with a background in the Hollywood Motion Picture industry — invented the Sensorama, a Head-mounted display (HMD) that allowed users to experience a simulation of a city-based environment. Heilig’s goal was to make the Sensorama’s users feel like they were part of a biker movie, à la Marlon Brando in The Wild One. Users were able to ride a motorcycle while hearing the engine, feeling the motor’s vibrations, and smelling the exhaust. As is with concepts ahead of its time, only a few people believed in the technology, and work was later halted when Heilig stopped receiving financial backing. Nonetheless, the Sensorama set off a ripple effect for Virtual Reality. 

The term “Virtual Reality” wasn’t coined until the mid-1980s, when the founder of VPL Research, Jaron Lanier, first developed and sold VR products, such as the DataGlove and Eyephone HMD, to a consumer audience. An audience was certainly needed in the golden age of arcades in the ’90s when the first VR arcade game, Virtuality, was invented by Jonathan Waldern, a Ph.D. graduate from the Loughborough University of Technology. Virtuality convinced people that VR could reach consumers — both in arcades and at their homes.

In 1995, Nintendo — already then one of the most prominent figures in the world — saw an opportunity to break into an untapped home VR market by releasing the Virtual Boy console. The console was also an HMD that featured a unique red stereoscopic 3D display but was, (and still is,) considered a commercial failure. While it sold over 700,000 units worldwide, it wasn’t enough for Nintendo, which was used to legendary sales hits like the GameBoy and Nintendo Entertainment System (NES). Moreover, the console was as far from Virtual Reality as it could be; it was uncomfortable, and the lack of color graphics at the time broke its immersion. 

Virtual Reality’s technological progress seemed to come to a screeching halt during this period. As far as the tech industry was concerned, it was as good as forgotten. It turns out, VR was just in a state of slumber, preparing for its inevitable grand resurgence.

Image of the Oculus Rift VR headset.

The modern era of VR was ushered in by Oculus founder and designer Palmer Luckey in 2010 when he prototyped the Oculus Rift headset, a VR device. The Rift’s first development kit — funded by a Kickstarter project raising $2 million — was released on March 29, 2013. Catching the eye of Facebook CEO Mark Zuckerberg, the company purchased Oculus the following year for a whopping $2 billion, sparking a new generation for the VR industry. The consumer version of the Oculus Rift was released in 2016, and it was a sign that VR has arrived. Other companies soon followed suit; HTC and Valve have released the Vive and Index respectively; Samsung with their mobile Gear VR headset (in partnership with Oculus.) Recently, Oculus released a follow-up version to the Oculus Rift called the Rift S, and an untethered headset called the Quest

Indeed, consumers nowadays want an experience, to feel things. It is without question that Virtual Reality provides exactly that.

Altogether, these devices have brought upon us unrivaled immersion that is impossible for various sectors of the Fashion industry to ignore. 

Through the use of VR, online shopping might look a lot like Obsess, a Virtual Reality e-commerce store by MIT Computer Science alum, Neha Singh, who strives for change in an otherwise static online-shopping age. Currently, Obsess provides different virtual retail locations that are browsable on the web like a luxury department store or arctic ski-ware cabin — perhaps soon, we can browse Dover Street Market’s Comme des Garcons and Bianca Chandon garments straight from our homes.

This type of VR technology is called WebVR as the experiences can be viewed from a web browser like Chrome or Firefox, where WebVR is already built into the platforms. Tech startup Youcan used that technology in re-creating Dolce & Gabbana’s store in VR, with plans to create virtual shopping spaces similar to Obsess, but with the ability to walk around and feel garments.

VR won’t only be able to impact the shopping experience, but also the in-person runway show, giving people around the world the chance to be present in an otherwise exclusive event. In 2014, Topshop used VR to present its London Fashion Week show at the Tate Modern. Buying that Shearling Wool Jacket straight from the runway sure sounds more realistic nowadays.

A Virtual Fashion World includes Fashion brands, e-commerce shops, and tech startups, all experimenting with VR technology is a step in the right direction, especially when they are all affected with drastic worldwide events like the current pandemic. If a blend of physical and digital through the use of VR really is the future of Fashion, it can not only help maintain businesses in times like these but also introduce a new audience to the industry. Fashion’s growth sounds more exciting than ever.

Increasing advancements in VR technology push the world into a future where having a VR headset might be the norm, espcially for the virtual fashion world . Check out the Oculus Quest: a headset with no wires while still maintaining a high-fidelity image. Or, the Valve Index, the most powerful VR device currently on the market with such a crisp image that the lines between real and virtual are blurred. Indeed, consumers nowadays want an experience, to feel things. It is without question that Virtual Reality provides exactly that.

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Images provided by Unsplash

Can the Fashion Industry Sustain the Growth of Menswear?


We are experiencing radical changes and shifts in 2020; the current COVID-19 pandemic is still enveloping the globe, forcing us to seek refuge within the confines of our own homes; people around the world are protesting, promoting conversations about what is right or wrong. Also, men now love buying clothes.

Yes, it’s true—but also not surprising. Gone are the days when men would scoff at the thought of spending hours at a clothing store. The fashion industry is also experiencing changes, and men are now in the spotlight. The Menswear industry is growing at an unprecedented rate; in fact, many analysts have forecasted that it will surpass womenswear by this year.

Many brands and companies have reaped the benefits of the current menswear boom. Luxury fashion brands such as Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga invested heavily in the menswear space, and now male consumers make up a considerable portion of their sales. On the other hand, retail giants like Nordstrom are now starting to open stores tailored for men.

Concerning brands, menswear focused labels have been surfacing like flowers blooming in the spring—but with no sign of it ever ending. Such brands include AMI, a French menswear label by renowned designer Alexandre Mattiussi who offers a casual yet chic approach to men’s clothing. Simultaneously, formerly womenswear-only focused brands like Alexander Wang and Stella McCartney are switching their attention to menswear. The people at the top of the fashion chain are certainly buying into menswear.

Perhaps it was inevitable for this to happen; men have always been style-oriented, from the sartorial ensembles of the 20th century to today’s streetwear-meets-luxury hybrid. The question is, why is it only starting to happen now? Is it because of the digital world and online shopping? Or is it a case of empowerment through clothing? To get a sense of the growth of the menswear industry, maybe the answer lies in the rich history and tradition of it’s past. A more profound question arises from that understanding: can the fashion industry sustain the growth of menswear?

Looking into the past century of menswear is enough to gain an understanding of how the menswear industry operates. Up until the 1960s, men wore clothes based on a borderline dogmatic set of rules that varied based on the decade. For example, in the 1930s, the Great Depression caused many men to lose their jobs, which inadvertently forced the fashion industry to be more conservative and practical. Instead of the elegant European attires taken straight out of Oxford University from the previous decade, men opted for oversized suits with padded shoulders and peaked lapels. Regardless if they were ill-fitting, men idolized influences like boxers or swimmers who possessed the “ideal man’s body,” and everyone conformed for the pursuit of acquiring the same look.

menswear self-expression

“There is no one-size-fits-all in today’s fashion world, and men are benefitting from that.”

In the ’60s—an age of rebellion—that all changed. Brought upon by the Ivy League style of clothing, men decided to abandon conservatism and went straight to the other direction: self-expression. There were no rules, no pre-defined notions of what one should look like; men started to wear what they wanted to wear because it was an extension of their personality.

Around the turn of the 21st century, the internet had taken off. Almost everything was online, including the dawn of the social media era. In 2009, the “menswear blogosphere” was born with the first blogs that directly talked to users about menswear. Notably, by former Fashion Editors Tyler Thoreson (Editor-in-chief of Digital at Ralph Lauren) and Josh Peskowitz (VP of Men’s Fashion Direction at Moda Operandi) was one of the first menswear blogs that had a unique voice. featured then up-and-coming brands like Rag & Bone and Billy Reid and was instrumental in giving menswear a respectful reputation. (GQ later incorporated into their website.) wasn’t alone in educating the newly initiated menswear audience. Message boards like Ask Andy About Clothes and StyleForum gave users online a platform for talking about the clothes and brands that they like—a precursor to today’s Male Fashion Advice subreddit. Interestingly, menswear fanatics turned to these forums to talk about technical terms like “Sprezzatura or conversations about different subcultures in menswear.

Precisely, that is what made these original menswear blogs successful: conversation. Male users online finally had a chance to interact with people around the world who shared the same passion for menswear—a sense of being part of a community. These blogs gave rise to the #menswear movement (pronounced “hashtag menswear”) during the peak of the Tumblr era. 

Take Lawrence Schlossman, who is currently the Brand Director at the online marketplace Grailed. Schlossman, who not only works at Grailed but is also a co-host of the often hilarious yet informative conversational podcast Throwing Fits, also started with blogging. He began with his Sartorially Inclined blog and transitioned to the How To Talk To Girls At Parties Tumblr blog, where he was and still is one of the loudest advocates for menswear.

Unfortunately, the hashtag menswear golden age reached its demise with the decline of Tumblr and with menswear being in all different circles nowadays. In recent years, we have seen streetwear rise to the occasion and sweep the fashion industry, with brands like Supreme and Off-White promoting a new age of self-expression and exclusivity. In terms of exclusivity, online users desire clothing that celebrities wear on Instagram. To round it all up, various avant-garde brands offer clothing that pushes the boundaries of what clothing can be, with legendary brands as Comme des Garcons and Yohji Yamamoto.

That is where we are today: there are endless possibilities to show off one’s style. There is no one-size-fits-all in today’s fashion world, and men are benefitting from that. The reason why menswear is in its current state is that men now have the option to be themselves through their clothing, and they can do it any way they want now with brands buying into it. 

But how should the fashion industry stop this from being just a trend? Digital Intelligence Firm L2 offers some suggestions with one main idea: cater to the male customer online. “As demand for menswear continues to grow, it is essential for brands that carry both men’s and women’s products to target men both on-brand site and in digital marketing across the web,” said L2 in a report released in 2018. From an even broader perspective, brands should target the “digital world” itself, with technological advancements like VR and AR being a possible future of shopping of sorts. Or perhaps a crazy idea: the ability to buy clothes online straight from a runway show. Crazy, but the possibilities are endless.

Regardless of how it all plays out, menswear will continue to grow from here, and it’s not only up to the fashion industry to handle its growth but to the general male audience as well. Fashion may be evolving, trends circulating, and shifts to fashion week being advocated by different parties, but one thing’s for certain: it won’t be a surprise if menswear will soon be at the forefront of Fashion.

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