New York Fashion Week was full of its usual brilliant designs and extravagant parties, mixed with the September heat, but something was very much missing. Fashion goers were just starting to get used to the change of venues from Lincoln Center to Moynihan Station and Skylight Clarkson Square for the second year in a row, but they were not ready to say goodbye to the delightful Bill Cunningham. After passing away this summer, hearts all around the world mourned the loss of the iconic photographer. The sparkle of fashion week will always be a little dull, but Bill will always be a part of New York.
I kicked off the round of Spring/Summer 2017 shows with the Tadashi Shoji Show at Moynihan Station. The show started with a peaceful animated film of artist Wu Junyong’s “Flying Arc,” where wild animals such as a pig, peacock, and tiger float upward on a tree in a spiritual journey led by a bird. As the models came down the runway, the animal recognition was evident in prints, delicate dyed ostrich feathers, and embroidered birds and flowers. To tie designs together, a handful of garments were made with elegant celestial ivory lace and beautiful chiffon.
Specializing in plus size and bridal garments with his exquisite eye for detail, Tadashi is well aware of how to dress women of all shapes and sizes. One of his flare fit dresses was a beautiful emerald color that featured embroidered birds. A striking blue topaz lace gown stole the show with its long sleeves and corset frame. The designer completed the garment with adding a cloud-like long skirt that danced and moved with each step. Other details found in Tadashi’s alluring collection included plunging v-necklines, flattering cut-outs, fringe hem lines, and chiffon. The models donned coral pink eye shadow and had their hair tied back in a messy bun. The looks were completed by long tassel earrings in various colors.
Bright and early on Saturday morning, I made my way downtown to Clarkson Square for the Dan Liu Spring/Summer 2017 Show. The show began with french music to match the theme of springtime in Paris with a model sitting in a cafe chair playfully smelling a rose. The collection was full of romance with fit and flare dresses in floral prints, shades of pastel lace, and sequins. Models had their hair styled straight and tied into a low ponytail with a middle part. Each guest received a red rose, a very sweet touch by the designer who radiated gratitude to the audience as he took a bow.
I wrapped up Fashion Week with the Vivienne Tam Show, followed by Aniesa Hasibuan shortly after. Vivienne Tam Shows have always been one of my favorites. I’ve attended several of her shows and one thing I’ve noticed is the energy and excitement surrounding each of her shows never seems to fade. Tam’s inspiration for the new collection came from the great city of Houston. Her theme was a combination of “NASA/Space Cowboy” with “Western Cowboy meets Eastern Cowboy.” The show began with a special broadcast from astronaut Tracy Dyson at the International Space Station’s Mission Control in Houston, Texas. The designer hit the space detail with celestial metallic pieces including a dress, an off-the-shoulder top, and pants. Several garments were stamped with NASA logos and mixed in with denim and fringe pieces. Tam tied in the cowboy looks with several western inspired metal belts.
The Anniesa Hasibuan Show was a very special event all around with a lot of “firsts.” Not only was it Hasibuan’s first time officially showing at New York Fashion Week, but it was also the first time an Indonesian designer showed their collection and the first time an entire collection included a hijab with every outfit. The designer paid homage to her hometown back in Indonesia by calling her collection “D’Jakarta.” The collection represented female empowerment and the cultural diversity of Jakarta. From capes, shawls, and jackets, to dresses and pants, each garment was dripping in detail. Hasibuan used various types of gorgeous embroidered fabrics and added sequins, pearls, and beads to make each piece unique. The last look of the show was an intricate gold lace gown that was absolutely stunning and looked like royalty on the model.
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